Got the Harbor Freight (HF) Central Tools- milling machine set up in the basement along with an old, used Enco lathe that I had to rebuild. This area next to the bikes is now called the TMS or Tiny Machine Shop, it's tight, but works for what I'll be doing.
As I assembled, checked for adjustment and acquired tools for the mill I also went all-in and set it up with DRO and a powered drive for the Y axis of the table (I hope to add the X axis in the future). So here's some pictures of what I did.
Below are the iGauging DRO equipment I used- I got it from a member on a forum who supplies them with the correct length arms for the mill used.
Y axis- I drilled and tapped the side of the mill base and installed the arm and used the two holes for the rubber chip guard in the back of the table to install a couple of brackets for the pickup thingy. (sorry, I don't have time to find the instructions and look up the correct names for this stuff).
Above: close up pic.
Above: the X axis was even easier, here the slide mounts to the table (I used the slot that runs the length for the stops, which I had to remove- so you have to be careful not to move the table too far to one end) and I used the bolts holding the stop bracket (it works out perfectly as a spacer) as a mount for the pickup part.
Left: I mounted the Z axis slide to the face plate on the front (I had to flip the bottom bracket (two silver screws) around because the slide was a little long. NOTE: I understand these can be cut to length if needed.
and the supplied arm mounted up nicely with the little pointer that attaches to the brass stop nut inside!
The only place I could find that was accessible and viewable to put the read out units was on a scrap sheet metal bracket I made attaching at the bottom and top of the belt cover- strapping secures the back.
I've used the readouts briefly during a small project and I like them so far,……will report back.
Next up- power feed for the table.
Found a 12-28v DC Speed Controller on eBay. Below and right is my wiring diagram that I made hoping to install a second switch and relay to power a second motor for future use (the controller cam with a three position switch for forward/reverse and a knob for speed control- I used my own switch because the supplied one was small--
In the end, the relay never worked right--I suck at wiring-- so I left the switch there for future use and got rid of the relay.
here's the controlled--Chinese model from Ebay
Above is the wiring I had planned on using before I found out I don't know what I'm doing and got rid of the relay…
Below: attaching the used automotive windshield wiper motor to the table and screw was quite the challenge! I started by drilling the end of the table for 3/8 X 16 threaded rod and mounted with some aluminum spacers and lock nuts. Next I cut the hand wheel so that only the center "love joy" piece remained, this gets reassembled in it's original position. The motor had a long survey steel arm that attaches at the shaft with a splined tapered fit and nut-I cut this arm so only a short, straight piece remains attached with the nut. Then I used a piece of aluminum tube stock and machined corresponding female/male ends to mate with the hand wheel side and motor side. Oh yeah, the hand wheel side was machined too…….
It all worked but the motor tended to tilt and try to walk off the coupling because it is made to mount with at three points and I was only utilizing two. So I found a spot under the table at the feed screw where I was able to attach some safety wire which then goes to the remaining mounting hole on the motor…
Perfect.
I can run the table back and forth at a good speed and bring it down to almost a stop for fine adjustment.
For now I'm using a motorcycle battery with a charger as a power source, but I've ordered a 110-220v to 12v converter (again, made in China from eBay and I'll report how it works out)
The TMS---Tiny Machine Shop.
Hope this helps anyone looking to do these modifications to their equipment.
Oh, and check out my other blogs here…..they are under Tricklidz.
OUT,
Steve
